Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Hiking 2.0 : Monsoon mania to Mullayanagiri


We had joy, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun.
But the hills that we climbed
were just seasons out of time.

It was a friday afternoon and a call from Bishu changed my plans for the weekend. All the plans of sticking to my planned schedule were thrown out of the window when he wanted to do a trek, after I jokingly suggested so. Since we were open to trekking anywhere in western ghats, we decided to do the Mullayanagiri-BabaBudangiri leg after havin already done Kemmanagundi-BabaBudangiri two years earlier. So, cancelled everything and booked the overnight tickets. But fate and Mallya's creation scripted a different story and we ended up instead catching the Rajhamsa bus at 11.00 AM next day to Chikmagalur. After a brief stopover for lunch at a place after Channayarapatna, we reached Chikmagalur at 5.00 PM sharp.


Mullayanagiri (Kannada: ಮುಳ್ಳಯ್ಯನಗಿರಿ) (also spelt Mullayangiri or Mullainagiri), is the highest peak in Karnataka, India. Mullayanagiri is located at 13°23′26″N 75°43′18″E in the Baba Budan Giri Range of the Western Ghats. With a height of 1,930 metres (6,330 ft), it is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Nilgiris

There are two routes to go to Mullayanagiri. One is a tar road that ends in a clutter of 500 steps that leads to the temple. And the other non-obvious one is to get down at Sarpadhari and take the route snaking up the hills. Its a quick ascent with a fast rate of elevation. Since tar roads are not what you want to walk on after travelling 280 kms, we asked the auto guy to drop us off near the metal arc at Sarpadhari.



It was 5.45 PM and a light drizzle started just as we were about to start. Lack of fitness showed on both as we panted throughout our initial climb till the body warmed up. Once that was done, we took minimal breaks to survey the elevation as well as the approaching darkness. I had accounted for trekking in total darkness in the plan. But we bettered ourselves in the latter bit and reached the summit by 7.05 PM, a decent speed on the slippery slopes at this time of the year.


We looked around the compound to find 3 houses and a temple at the top of the mountain. After asking the permission from the priest of the temple, we began to setup the tent. The priest offered us a room inside but it is no fun sleeping inside a house on a trek. So, we decided to set camp and it took us almost similar time as it took to climb the peak. The heavy winds had already started and we had to use huge stones to protect the pegs. Finally done by 8.30 PM, we decided to go for some socializing and went inside the house to have some black coffee(not due to choice but due to lack of milk). Met a cop there, who is stationed on a rotating basis for 4 days. He was on this shift and used to stay in the same house.

The next hour was a fun conversation with the two of them. When people don't know each other's languages, its mostly the signs and common sounding words that come to the rescue. Moreover, due to DD being the only channel on the TV, they used to watch Hindi tv soaps as well, which helped us here. Ultimately, its the language of humanism that binds us all together and we made a decent conversation before they went for dinner. We refused dinner as we were already carrying our stuff.

It was a spectacle with below 10 degree temperatures, heavy winds and mist engulfing the entire mountain. Food was cold but nevertheless attacked with glee by both of us till the last bhindi. Made some necessary calls and then indulged in bakaar till Bishu went asleep and I was left wondering how to pass the time.

Like all bad times, the night turned out to be very long. With rains, the ground had become wet. The winds never abated. The cold became worse.The tent door flapped entire night. But, finally lights came out albeit full surrounded by fog. The fog and the winds never abated till 8.00 AM. We decided to leave the place at 9 after breakfast.

The initial route to BabaBudangiri from behind the temple is a little confusing. But the right way is to go parallel y to the road and then get onto the mountain ridge. From then on, its a hike up and hike down. Except a few dangerous climbs on big wet rocks right at the edge of 30-40 feet drops, the route is not that tough. The walking trail ends near a check-post where it crosses the tar road. From there on the second leg starts towards BabaBudangiri.



It did not take us long to reach the check-post, within an hour. After some clicks and monkeying around the post, we decided to move ahead further. This latter part was a little tiring with climbs and mist reducing visibility to less than 10 meters, we just decided to follow the trail and could not make out our position in the overall route as the transmission towers(which serve as landmarks) were blocked by the mist. After more monkeying around, more snaps and more rests, we made it to BabaBudangiri by 12.30 PM, a neat time of 3.30 hours since start. On the way down, we came across a few people asking about the duration/toughness of the trek.

A few snaps across this trek:






Our plan was to take the 2300 hours bus from Chikmagalur, but due to our pace we reached BabaBudangiri early and hence decided to hitch hike on a Maruti omni and reached Chikmagalur bus stand at 2.45 PM right in time for the Rajhamsa bus 15 minutes later. Soon, we were on our way back and enjoying the coziness of our homes by 9.00 PM.

A weekend well spent.

Things to carry during monsoon:

1. Backpack rain cover
2. Poncho
3. A sturdy tent

The route to BabaBudangiri is a well laid out single trail. On top of the peaks, the trail sometimes disappears but try going to the other side of the top and one will find the single trail reappearing again. No leeches and quite doable even in peak monsoons. Off course the trade off would be some awesome views whitened out due to mist. More importantly don't take the wrong left from Mullayanagiri. We almost did that and came across a carcass and was about to enter a big forest till we decided to go the other way parallel y to the tar road.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Paradise lost?


7 months of B-school grind killed the bug of photography but not the travelling one...

So, when the opportunity came during the year-end break, I latched onto it and decided to go to Bangalore. Of course there were other plans but destiny has its own of playing out things. So, took the 29th evening train to Howrah and a flight next day to Bangalore.

Met near and dear ones but the bug was getting worse and finally I succumbed to it as I hit the road to Gokarna, 480 kms away from Bangalore. For more information on Gokarna.

Cut to 8.30 AM, and I was near the Hotel Gokarn and savored the sights and sounds as I walked towards Gokarna beach. 20 mins more and I met the rest of the Gang keeping the hotel cook busy, gorging on anything coming their way.

Started from Gokarna beach and took the path running to Arabian Sea towards Kudle. But this time we decided to follow the unconventional route generally followed by cows or goats rather than the locals or tourists or hikers. The route starts behind the Ganpati temple, circles dangerously around the edges of the cliffs before hitting Kudle beach. Thorns greet you at multiple places followed by the typical weird characters that makes Gokarna mysterious and inviting.



It was almost noon as we reached Kudle after some minor hiccups. We decided to hit the Sunset cafe, shack right at the middle of Kudle for some energy drinks. But as law does it to you at the most righteous of times, sale of alcohol was banned till midnight due to local elections.

After sipping something of a compromise between Balaji (a local cola found near Kudremukh) and Pepsi, we started towards OM beach on a more normal route this time.

The OM beach is so named as its shape resembles the Hindu letter 'OM'.


OM beach was a sight for sore eyes. Quite a lot of changes have happened since the time I first came here while backpacking through the western coast. Saw banana boats, speed boats, extended Indian families littering the beach. We made a quick exit from this beach, with half of the junta deciding to take the boat to Paradise and the remaining , the hour long trek across 3 more hills. As one scales up the hill at the rear end of OM, we see why its so named.









More climbing later, we take a deviation to reach the palm tree that juts out of the cliff and overlooks the Arabian Sea.





From the archives:

aaah..no not carribean


After spending about half an hour, we made our way towards half-moon beach, the name coming from as you might have already guessed, the shape of the beach.

Another 20 minutes and we came to Paradise or full-moon beach.

We went to our regular 2nd cafe(the 3rd consecutive year), owned by Nagesh and named as the Evergreen cafe.




Lots of wait and lots of food later, a few to sleep, a few went to water, a few went to shoot and the remaining did the most common activity on that beach, i.e. did NOthing.





Paradise is rumored to be so named by the Israeli hippies who found this beach in the late 70's. Its accessible by boat only till sunset, when the tide is too high for boats to come. The nearest bus stop is about 4 kms from away in Belekhan village and the last bus is at 5 PM. So, after dusk, the only route is via climbing 3 hills and trying to avoid slippery rocks :). Luckily, this very relative difficulty of accessibility kept the beach away from the footfalls of the Indian visitors for quite a long time , till almost 2 years back, when me along with a couple of my colleagues were the only Indian non-locals on the beach. But times have changes, so has the demographics. And so has the litter and respect of individual-space levels. However, the beach is still a must-go because of its relatively less density even on the new year.







Although the hippies are long gone, the beach is still heaven for backpackers and trippers, who like to spend a few weeks on lesser crowded beaches, practising yoga and stuff.










The last sunset of the year was awesome due to clear skies.



The last boat to the mainstream...




And then people let out their joy....



And some more joy...



After sunset, the entire group of 13(not very unlucky with Rags dropping out at last moment) sat around the table, chit-chatting... bottles were readied, starters ordered...cork came out and so did the fizz....cops made their appearance too... surely, the times have changed now, I felt...The music became subdued with more of rock than shiv or Goa trance this time...

The darkness outside, the sea behind our backs, a long awaited get-together made up for all the tiredness...The clock struck 12 and we were on the other side of the beach and unlike earlier times, this time it was a few shouts and everybody went back to their businesses :(

And more orders followed and after dinner a walk-up-the-hill-to-gaze-at-the-stars followed and the clear sky did not disappoint us....with the lighthouse interfering periodically.

Soon, we hit the sack at around 2, remarkably early for 31st nights...

Post-early morning activities and a breakfast at Shanti Garden, Bishu, Prasanna and myself went out to find the lighthouse and after two ascents up two hills and chasing down trails to dead-ends, we gave up and returned back to base...



The group(excluding me)



Post-lunch, I decided to start back for Gokarna as ferries were going only to OM beach due to high tides in Gokarna... Had a quick look around OM beach and found a high speed Internet cafe of all things...maybe the proverbial last straw...Just for the info, the speed was real good as I updated my facebook status...so much for my rant at materialization ...

The journey from OM to Gokarna was fun...made a couple of Spanish guys pulling their bikes up the hill...Offered them the matches to light up and shared a few moments with them, before they went to depths of Hindu mythology and culture and I made a quick exit before my poverty in knowledge of my own culture embarrassed me...

Since, I had 2 more hours to spare, went to Bahadur's place at Flower Garden and had his special French toast and cutting chai before taking the return bus to Bangalore...

More travelling followed and I reached Jampot by 10 PM...well-spent 102 hours away from there...

PS: Thanks to Chetan, Jaggu and Madhu for the pics...

PPS: Guys, time to find a new new-year destination, a new Paradise :)